India : Beyond the Guidebook A Small Group Tour Led by Reena Anderson-Bickley 04-17 February 2027
The Tour
This immersive 14-day journey through North India blends history, art, food, and local insight, offering a deeper perspective beyond traditional sightseeing. Beginning in Delhi, the trip explores the layered heritage of India’s capital through expert-led tours, iconic monuments, and exceptional dining experiences.
From Delhi, the journey continues to Agra to witness the Taj Mahal at sunrise and explore Mughal architecture, before travelling onward to Jaipur, where guests experience the vibrant “Pink City” through its markets, palaces, design scene, and cultural storytellers.
The itinerary then slows in Alwar, staying in a historic hill fort and enjoying nature, relaxation, and local culture. A contrast follows in Varanasi, one of the world’s oldest living cities, where spiritual rituals and ancient traditions offer a profound and atmospheric experience.
Throughout the tour, accommodation is in carefully selected heritage properties and boutique hotels, and experiences are enriched by historians, artists, and local experts along with Reena who will accompany the group throughout.
The Food
Food across Delhi, Agra, Jaipur, and Varanasi is not simply about sustenance; it is a living expression of history, tradition, and cultural exchange. Sample the varied cuisine of India, from top restaurants to humble street food.
In Delhi, centuries of migration and empire have shaped the city’s food into a reflection of its layered past. The Mughal emperors left behind a legacy of aromatic biryanis, slow-cooked kormas, and charcoal-grilled kebabs, while waves of traders and settlers introduced their own flavours. Today, Delhi’s bustling streets still echo these influences in the form of chaat, tangy golgappas, and richly spiced parathas from the old alleys of Chandni Chowk—dishes that speak of a city forever reinventing itself through food.
Agra, though globally renowned for the Taj Mahal, also bears the imprint of Mughal taste in its kitchens. The city’s cuisine reflects the grandeur of courtly dining, with its emphasis on nuts, dried fruits, and fragrant gravies, yet its most famous contribution is humbler: the translucent petha, a translucent candy made from ash gourd and flavoured with rose or saffron. Legend has it that this sweet was first prepared in the royal kitchens, but it has since become a symbol of the city itself. Agra’s culinary identity is thus a blend of imperial elegance and simple pleasures, mirroring the contrast between its monumental architecture and everyday rhythms.
Royal patronage also elevated Rajasthani food into a cuisine of opulence—rich in ghee, vibrant spices, and sweets such as ghewar (a traditional Rajasthani dis cshaped Indian sweet made from flour, ghee, and a sugar syrup) that remain tied to festivals and seasonal rituals. Eating in Jaipur, one tastes both the resilience of desert communities and the splendour of Rajput courts.
Varanasi, by contrast, carries a sacred and philosophical approach to food, deeply tied to its spiritual identity as one of the world’s oldest living cities. The predominance of vegetarian dishes here is linked to religious traditions and rituals, with simple fare like kachori sabzi and aloo-tamatar curry embodying both devotion and local ingenuity. Streetside stalls offer tamatar chaat, a sweet-sour-spicy preparation, while the winter delicacy malaiyo—light as air, flavored with saffron and pistachios—evokes the city’s quiet artistry.
Trip Scholar – Reena Anderson-Bickley

Born in Cheshire to Indian parents, who came to England in the 1960’s. Almost every year I would travel back to Delhi with my mother for a holiday. I would play with my cousins and absorb the language, culture and food. After university I stayed in India for three months. It was hot and I spent a lot on time indoors reading books, I really fell in love with Old Delhi and the wonderfully syncretic nature of the architecture and art of 17 – 19 century North India. Later on I worked for an international company in London and had a two month secondment at the office in Mumbai, this cemented my love for the country.
Fast forward 30 years, a few years ago I left my job to follow my passion and study Indian and Islamic art. My study has really helped me to connect with the heritage and view the art, buildings and textiles through a new academic lens. My insider knowledge of Delhi and the other cities we visit, will give you a look into the lives of ordinary people of India, we will go were few tourists go and you will have a most authentic and vibrant experience.
14 days from £4,585.00 per person
- Discover Delhi’s layered history with historians, anthropologists, and storytellers bringing monuments and neighbourhoods vividly to life.
- Witness the Taj at its most magical, as the marble shifts from soft pink to glowing white in the early morning light.
- Enjoy high tea in Kacchpura village with a unique, peaceful view of the Taj Mahal away from the crowds.
- Jaipur’s Hidden Heritage Walks, explore the Pink City’s havelis, temples, and markets with an expert dedicated to preserving its disappearing architecture. Gain a more intimate look at royal life with special access areas and curated insights into Jaipur’s living heritage.
- Experience the spiritual city of Varansi (one of the world's oldest continually inhabited cities) a significant pilgrimage site for Hindus, Buddhists, and Jains.
- Stay in a 14th-Century Hill Fort Relax at Hill Fort Kesroli in Alwar, combining history, countryside views, and a slower pace of travel.
- Travel with like-minded guests in a small group, led by Reena Anderson-Bickley.
- Curated cultural experiences, from meeting artisans and activists to exploring design, food, and philosophy, the journey is enriched by meaningful local connections.
Day 1 : To Delhi
Thursday 4 February
Fly from London to Delhi by either British Airways or Virgin Atlantic flight (direct flight).
Departures from regional UK airports, Premium and Business Class supplements and flights from outside UK are available on request.
Day 2 : Delhi
Friday 5 February
Arrival Delhi in the morning.
Meeting assistance on arrival and transfer to the hotel. A tranquil heritage property surrounded by gardens located of the most prestigious and greenest parts of New Delhi. Designed in the early 20th century by Sir Edwin Lutyens, the chief architect of New Delhi, this area is known for its wide tree-lined avenues, grand colonial-era bungalows, and serene charm. Rest of the day at leisure. you can if you wish have a stroll around the historic Safdarjung Tomb which is 5 minutes walk from the bungalow.
Welcome dinner at Luyten's Bungalow (vegetarian). 3 nights stay at Lutyen's Bungalow - New Delhi.
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Day 3 : Delhi
Saturday 6 February
After breakfast we will meet our first expert who is a numismatist and historian researching Delhi's history and advocate for heritage preservation. We will spend a morning exploring the Qutb Complex, a UNESCO World Heritage Site that showcases Delhi’s layered past. Here we’ll admire the soaring Qutb Minar, once the tallest minaret in the world, the intricately carved Quwwat-ul-Islam Mosque, and the legendary Iron Pillar, famous for its rust-resistant metallurgy.
Later we will then visit the fabled Humayan’s Tombs. We visit Humayun's Tomb, one of the finest early examples of Mughal architecture in India and a key precursor to the Taj Mahal. Built in the 16th century, the monument combines Persian design with Indian craftsmanship, set within a formal charbagh garden symbolising paradise. As we walk through the complex, we will look at the artistic details, geometry, and historical ideas that shaped the beginnings of Mughal imperial style.
For dinner we will dine at Indian Accent, one of Asia’s most celebrated restaurants and consistently ranked among the continent’s very best. Here, traditional Indian flavours meet bold, modern interpretations, creating dishes that surprise and delight with every bite. It’s more than a meal, it’s a chance to taste India’s culinary creativity at its most inventive, and to experience firsthand how Indian food heritage continues to evolve in exciting ways.
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Day 4 : Delhi
Sunday 7 February
After breakfast we drive to Old Delhi, where we meet our next local guide, a storyteller and anthropologist who has grown up within the walled city. Enter into the maze of Chandni Chowk’s bustling bylanes, where centuries-old shops, vibrant markets, and the aroma of street food bring the old city’s layered history to life. Along the way, he’ll weave together stories of emperors, merchants, and everyday lives that shaped this neighbourhood into the beating heart of Mughal India.
Together, we’ll step into the grandeur of Jama Masjid, one of the largest mosques in the country, visit a Jain temple on a street where all the neighbours are family, before making our way to the imposing Red Fort, a UNESCO World Heritage Site that still echoes the power and pageantry of the past Empires. This isn’t just a walk through Old Delhi—it’s an immersion into its living heritage, guided by someone who carries its soul in his words. We will stop for a few bites along the way.
The tour will take you on a journey through some of Delhi’s most iconic landmarks and experiences. We’ll begin at Agrasen ki Baoli, a centuries-old stepwell that blends architecture and legend, offering a tranquil pause in the heart of the city. From there, we’ll step into the spiritual calm of Gurdwara Bangla Sahib, where the golden domes and soothing sounds of kirtan create an atmosphere of eace and devotion. The exploration continues at the lively Janpath Market, where colourful stalls brim with handicrafts, jewellery, and textiles—perfect for a bit of treasure hunting and people-watching. To close the day, we’ll go for a delicious dinner at the iconic Kwality, a Delhi institution known for its classic North Indian flavors, especially chana bhatura, a puffed bread with chickpeas. Kwality restaurant in Delhi’s Connaught Place opened in 1940 as a snack bar for American soldiers who stopped over in Delhi during World War II.
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Day 5 : To Agra
Monday 8 February
After breakfast drive to Agra (approximately 4 hours driving time). On arrival in Agra check in to your hotel, JP Palace.
We will then be accompanied by a distinguished historian and independent researcher for an insightful journey through Agra’s heritage. The tour will commence with a visit to the exquisite Itmad-ud-Daulah, often regarded as a precursor to the Taj Mahal. We will then explore select sections of the grand Agra Fort, a monument of immense historical and architectural significance.
Later we visit Kacchpura village located across from The Taj Mahal for high tea curated under the UNESCO Agra mission. We will take a short glimpse into village life and enjoy chai and some homemade snacks whilst admiring the Taj in the background. The evening will conclude at Mehtab Bagh, offering a serene vantage point from which we view the Taj Mahal, illuminated under the night sky.
Agra grew in prominence under the rule of the Mughal Empire in 1526, reaching its zenith between 1556 and 1658, under the successive rules of Akbar, Shah Jehan and Jehangir. Akbar's reign was memorable in the city's history when it became a leading centre of art, science, commerce and culture, drawing intellectuals and artists to its Darbars and Havelis.
Dinner at the hotel.
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Day 6 : To Jaipur
Tuesday 9 February
Today is our early start, we wake up around 5.00 to reach the Taj at 6, for sunrise, it truly is the most evocative time to view it. The light is hazy, the marble is pink and it is less crowded. We will return to the hotel for breakfast and checkout, then we set out to take a look at Colonial Agra.
Under ornate ‘chhatris’ , the white Mughals rest in Agra’s Roman Catholic Cemetery. Approximately 400 years old, the cemetery is unique. Here the early Christian settlers of north India were buried under elaborately ornate Mughal style tombs, some of which were crude replicas of the Taj. The epitaphs come with an assortment of languages, which include Persian, Armenian, Italian and English. Among the tombs that stand out in the Roman Catholic Cemetery is the Red Taj, housing the mortal remains of the Dutch mercenary, John William Hessing.
After visiting Christian Agra, we will set off by road for Jaipur (travel time 4 hours). As we make our way towards the Pink City, we’ll pause at the historic village of Abhaneri to visit the remarkable Chand Baori stepwell, one of the deepest and most beautifully designed in India, it extends approximately 30 m (100 ft) into the ground, This ancient structure, with its intricate geometric steps descending into the earth, showcases the ingenuity of early Indian architecture. Just beside it stands the Harshat Mata Temple, dedicated to the goddess of joy and happiness, where exquisite carvings reflect the artistry of the 9th century.
We arrive in the pink city of Jaipur, late afternoon/early evening, check into Alsisar Haveli. Dinner at the hotel.
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Day 7 : Jaipur
Wednesday 10 February
After breakfast we will meet our next expert who has been archiving the beauty of disappearing structures including havelis (courtyard mansions) and stepwells across cities in Rajasthan to keep their memory alive. He will take us on a 3-4 hour walk in the walled city covering temples, havelis, the markets and bylanes. Our expert had the idea of creating an archive of all the old houses and structures in and around the city. Rapid development and urbanisation is slowly changing the cityscape of Jaipur.
We will spend the afternoon at Narain Niwas Palace which houses Kanota Courtyard a tranquil shopping arcade where you will find treasures that speak of Indian artistic traditions – silverware, bags, handcrafted decor, and textiles.
In the evening we will dine at The Johri, an acclaimed restaurant tucked inside a beautifully restored 19th‑century haveli in the heart of Johri Bazaar. Celebrated for its seasonal, vegetarian Indian cuisine that reimagines local traditions with imagination and finesse, this intimate setting offers a calm, refined contrast to the vibrant bazaar just steps away. As we taste dishes rooted in Rajasthani flavours and thoughtfully prepared with contemporary nuance, it’s a chance to savour both the culinary creativity and heritage that define Jaipur’s evolving food scene.
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Day 8 : Jaipur
Thursday 11 February
For a change from forts/palaces and temples we will visit some of Jaipur’s beautiful design and fashion stores. Jaipur is the beating heart of Indian craftsmanship. We will also meet our next expert, an eco-activist and feminist, to view Jaipur from a female perspective. Together we will visit Anokhi, Nila Jaipur (Nila founded by Carole Bamford of Daylesford Farm at the intersection of craft, design, sustainability and community empowerment), a jutti store that sells the famous Jaipuri footwear museum and then taste the most delicious lassi (buttermilk) that has gained somewhat of a cult status.
In the afternoon we will visit the City Palace complex for the rest of the day. We will have a personal guide who will take us to areas that are reserved for those looking for a more intimate view of the palace life. The complex houses art galleries, museums and two excellent stores for clothes and homeware shopping. In 2021, Princess Gauravi Kumari of Jaipur turned her passion for fashion into a charitable endeavour when she co-founded the PDKF Store, a retail outlet created to showcase the products crafted by the women working with the Princess Diya Kumari Foundation. All proceeds from the sales go towards the foundation.
Dinner at the hotel.
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Day 9 : Alwar
Friday 12 February
After breakfast we set out to explore Amber Fort, it is a historic fortress and palace complex located in Amer, a town 11 kilometers from Jaipur. Built around 1592 and known for its impressive Rajput architecture blending Hindu and Mughal styles, it features artistic carvings, vast ramparts, and overlooks Maota Lake. Amer Palace is a great example of Rajput architecture. Many of its buildings reference Mughal architecture. Constructed of red sandstone and marble, the attractive, opulent palace is laid out on four levels, each with a courtyard. It consists of the Diwan-e-Aam, or ‘Hall of Public Audience’, the Diwan-e-Khas, or ‘Hall of Private Audience’, the Sheesh Mahal (mirror palace), Jai Mandir, and the Sukh Niwas where a cool climate is artificially created by winds that blow over a water cascade within the palace.
We will then make our way by road to Alwar (3.5 hours). Afternoon at leisure.
The Neemrana Hill Fort Kesroli is home for the next two nights. The Hill Fort Kesroli is a 14th-century fort located in Alwar district, Rajasthan. It is known for its turrets, ramparts, and arched verandahs and today considered one of the most authentic heritage hotels in India. The fort is a 14th century Rajput stronghold perched on dark Hornstone Breccia, its seven turrets and ramparts rising 50–65 m above the surrounding farmland.
Dinner at the hotel.
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Day 10 : To Alwar
Saturday 13 February
After a relaxing breakfast, we will follow a trekking trail to a small hill top (2-3 hours) to experience the Alwar countryside. The afternoon is at leisure, maybe a visit to the hotel spa or read a book by the pool. In the evening the hotel holds a cultural evening and you will experience Rajasthani music and dancing, followed by dinner in the hotel. B, D
Day 11 : To Varanasi
Sunday 14 February
After breakfast we make our way back to Delhi airport by road for the short flight to Varanasi (approx 1 hour 45 mins). Meeting, assistance on arrival and check in to hotel for two nights.
The Tree of Life Resort offers unmatched solace in contrast to the constant bustle of Varanasi. Visiting Varanasi requires you to be sensitive, spiritual, and open-minded, it is hard to imagine what the experience will be like. Set just outside Varansi the hotel provides a peaceful setting and for a break from the crowded city. Dinner will be at the hotel.
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Day 12 : Varanasi
Monday 15 February
After breakfast we meet our historian, and drive a short distance to Sarnath, a UNESCO World Heritage site. Sarnath, located just a short distance from Varanasi, holds immense significance as one of the four principal pilgrimage sites for Buddhists. It was here, in the 6th century BCE, that Gautama Buddha delivered his first sermon after attaining enlightenment at Bodh Gaya, setting in motion the “Dharmachakra Pravartan,” or the turning of the wheel of Dharma. The site is home to remarkable monuments such as the Dhamek Stupa, believed to mark the exact spot of the sermon, and the Ashokan Pillar, which once bore the emblem that later became the national symbol of India. Time dependent, we will also visit the nearby Lhaden Chenmo Tibetan Monastery,constructed in 1955, it is the first monastery and temple built by the present Dalai Lama in India.
We return to the hotel for lunch and free time before heading into Varanasi for our specially curated tour. Varanasi is one of the world's oldest continually inhabited cities and a significant pilgrimage site for Hindus, Buddhists, and Jains, known for its holy ghats (riverfront steps), temples like Kashi Vishwanath, and vibrant spiritual energy where culture & devotion and life & death converge along the sacred Ganges.
Our thoughtfully designed tour offers an immersive experience that blends a curated food journey with the authentic charm of raw Benares. Discover the city’s culinary treasures—from traditional kachoris and seasonal malaiyo to the iconic Banarasi paan—while also exploring its narrow alleys, bustling bazaars, and historic ghats. This combination provides a holistic perspective of Varanasi, showcasing both its celebrated flavours and its timeless character.
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Day 13 : To Delhi
Tuesday 16 February
At dawn, as the first rays of sunlight touch the sacred waters of the Ganga, you’ll witness the morning aarti, a deeply moving ritual where priests and devotees greet the rising sun with offerings, chanting, and prayers. This is a moment where the spiritual heart of Varanasi comes alive, and you’ll feel the centuries-old rhythm of devotion that has pulsed here since time immemorial. After the ceremony and a cup of chai, we’ll board our private boat, accompanied by a storyteller and the soothing melodies of a flautist. As we glide peacefully along the Ganga, we’ll pass the 84 historic ghats, each with its own unique story—some of pilgrimage and penance, others of kings and poets, and still others of life, death, and rebirth. Along the way, you’ll learn about: The origins of Varanasi as one of the world’s oldest living cities, said to be founded by Lord Shiva himself. The significance of the ghats, from the bustling Dashashwamedh Ghat to the solemn Manikarnika Ghat. The intertwining of mythology, history, and daily life that makes Varanasi a place unlike any other.
We return to the hotel and then transfer to the airport to take a short flight back to Delhi. Overnight stay Taj Dwarka, near the airport. Dinner at the hotel.
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Day 14 : Departure India
Wednesday 17 February
Fly from Delhi to London Heathrow on direct British Airways or Virgin Atlantic flight arrival in London Heathrow on the same day. B
Itinerary map
Dates & Prices
| Dates | Price per person (Double/Twin share) | Single room supplement |
|---|---|---|
| 04-17 Feb 2027 | £4,585.00 | £805.00 |
- International flights on British Airways or Virgin Atlantic (Economy Class). Premium Economy and Business Class supplements are available on request.
- Internal flights in Economy class extra large seats with 23kg checked in baggage allowance.
- Daily breakfast and dinner. High tea in Agra.
- Accommodation as per the itinerary in Double / Twin Room (Check-in is 1400 hrs and checkout 12 noon. Early check-in and late checkout are subject to availability).
- Services of an English-speaking Tour Manager from arrival in India until departure.
- Services of our representative for airport transfers and assistance etc.
- Services of Reena Anderson-Bickley as tour leader.
- All transfers and sightseeing by a chauffeur-driven Airconditioned Coach
- Services of English-speaking guide during city sightseeing as specified in the itinerary.
- Entrance fees to all monuments during the sightseeing as specified in your itinerary.
- Complimentary mineral water whilst driving.
- Financial protection of your payment by our ATOL & ABTA License.
- India Visa Fee: We will send you a step-by-step guide how to apply for E-Tourist visa.
- Any expenses of a personal nature like laundry, telephone calls and beverages.
- Camera fees at monuments and other places of interest.
- Travel Insurance.
We plan to follow this detailed itinerary, but events beyond our control – unpredictable weather, blocked roads, cancelled flights, mechanical breakdown – or unscheduled closure of any monument / museum may require last minute changes to the itinerary. We will ensure that these changes are kept to a minimum if required.
*Travel Insurance
It is essential to have adequate insurance in place before your departure. This should be appropriate for your age, health and destination you are visiting.
• Make sure it includes comprehensive medical and repatriation cover.
• Make sure it provides cover for your whole trip (whether one day or over a year).
• Make sure it covers you for all activities.
• Disclose pre-existing medical conditions.
• Take your policy number and the 24-hour emergency contact numbers with you.
What our clients say
Mr & Mrs K - India HolidayJust thought I’d drop you a line now that sadly, our holiday is fading into a memory: we had a wonderful time and you and your team in India had done a magnificent job for us, as usual. Many sights and sounds, lovely hotels, nice guides and drivers etc. Thank you for all your hard work in organising it. We are meeting up with Mr…